In my garden restoration work I am often asked about lawns. I know that I am not a lawn care specialist. I kind of prefer folks thinking I don’t know much about lawns lest they ask me to mow theirs. I don’t mind mowing some lawns as part of a garden restoration project or as part of a total garden care approach, but I mowed enough lawns as a kid to last me a very long time.
However, in my work I have noticed some common practices that are hurting and not hindering lawns.
The key to a good lawn is a healthy root system. And the key to a healthy root system is healthy soil with plenty of organic material and worms and good stuff like that. Sadly many of our common lawn practices work precisely against healthy soil. It is no easy task to develop a good healthy soil in a sandy region like this.
What I see all the time are lawns of overly short grass with low runners clinging tenaciously to hard ground, There may be as much exposed hard ground as actual lawn. And this state of affairs often exists despite lawn services and chemical treatments.
In fact, these services may be doing as much or more harm than good to your lawn. I know personally through my work of several lawn services that do an absolutely super job with lawns, and generally it is because the owner really knows a lot about turf. But sadly, too many lawn services do not know so much about turf.. The same can be said for well meaning homeowners.
Here are the lawn care sins killing your lawn – watering too often and too shallowly, using a blower on the lawn, bagging the clippings, mowing the grass too short, and using too much fertilizer.
Yep, all that is killing your lawn.
Take blowers for example. I realize that in the fall when deciduous trees drop tons of leaves raking can be a pain. A powerful gas blower can come in handy – even more so if the leaves are at all wet. But unless you already have a deep rich sod those same blowers also blow every little tidbit of organic matter right off your lawn in the summer. It’s a wonder the grass isn’t blown away with it. Blowers are NOT good for lawns.
Perhaps the biggest hindrance to a healthy lawn is simply cutting the grass to short. Longer grass is better for several reasons. First, longer grass gives weeds less opportunity to find the sun and grow to maturity. If there is anything you do not want a weed to to do it is that – grow to maturity. Second, longer grass actually shades and keeps the soil cooler which retains moisture better – it is its own mulch if you will. Third, longer grass needs cutting less often. I know this seems counter intuitive but cutting the grass blade short stimulates a response of rapid shoot growth, growth which requires the use of food resources stored in the roots and stems, the constant use of which weakens the plant. Fourth, and perhaps most important, longer grass stimulates the growth of deeper roots, crucial to a healthy plant. Fifth and finally, longer grass better hinders the run off of water, as well as chemicals like fertilizer and herbicide that have possibly been applied to the lawn.
Shallow overly-frequent watering is very bad for lawns also, for two main reasons. First, shallow surface watering trains the root system to stay on the surface where it can grab the moisture before it evaporates. Deeper watering less often encourages the roots to grow deeper into the soil to find moisture, and that makes for a lawn more able to withstand future drought. In addition, overly frequent watering encourages fungal disease, probably the primary killer of turf plants. Surface soil actually needs to dry out, not only to encourage deeper root growth but also to hinder the growth of fungi. Sometimes we think that when a lawn starts to look a little droopy that it is in need of immediate watering. But most grassy plants are adapted to frequent cycles of wet and dry weather. When conditions get really dry they enter a state of semi dormancy, which will be quickly broken by rain or watering. The point is, it does not hurt the lawn to let it dry out some. So I suggest that you not water every day. More water less often is the way to go.
Most modern mowers do a very good job with “mulching,” that is, breaking up the grass and other material into tiny pieces and depositing this natural compost back onto the soil where it can decompose or be worked into the ground by worms. The mix of fresh grass clippings and chopped up organic matter is perfect for developing a healthier sod and minimizing the need for fertilizer.
Speaking of fertilizer, the truth is most people use way too much fertilizer and weed killer. Yes, our turf grasses need a boost of fertilizer a couple of times a year. A slow release fertilizer is ideal because plants can only absorb and use so much N-P-K at a time. Over-fertilization creates a problem not unlike over watering – it encourages a shallow growth pattern and discourages the plant roots from seeking out nutrients deeper in the soil. And – you are probably aware of the fact that fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides and fungicides on private lawns contribute greatly to pollution in our streams, rivers and lakes.
Even with correct practices, lawn issues will arise. For example, there was a good bit of winter-kill this year, especially in weaker lawns. Nematodes and fungi can be a problem despite excellent lawn care. Before embarking on an expensive re-sodding or lawn do-over it is good to have soil tested including tests for nematodes and fungi. Many times I have seen homeowners re-sod lawns only to have the new sod die because the underlying problems such as nematodes or fungal disease were not addressed.
Barren lawns can be rehabilitated with patience and good turf management practice. In addition to applying the techniques outlined above, filling in bare spots with a good compost (not sand) will encourage runners to spread into the bare areas. Sprigging here and there can quickly fill up barren spots as well. Aerating can be very helpful.
Some areas of your yard simply will not allow for grass primarily due to deep shade. Such areas can be mulched. One practice I am growing more and more fond of myself is planting or simply giving over such areas to moss, which is quite beautiful in its own way.
A great lawn doesn’t happen over night, so take the long view, and enjoy your space while that lawn underneath grows healthier and healthier.
However, in my work I have noticed some common practices that are hurting and not hindering lawns.
The key to a good lawn is a healthy root system. And the key to a healthy root system is healthy soil with plenty of organic material and worms and good stuff like that. Sadly many of our common lawn practices work precisely against healthy soil. It is no easy task to develop a good healthy soil in a sandy region like this.
What I see all the time are lawns of overly short grass with low runners clinging tenaciously to hard ground, There may be as much exposed hard ground as actual lawn. And this state of affairs often exists despite lawn services and chemical treatments.
In fact, these services may be doing as much or more harm than good to your lawn. I know personally through my work of several lawn services that do an absolutely super job with lawns, and generally it is because the owner really knows a lot about turf. But sadly, too many lawn services do not know so much about turf.. The same can be said for well meaning homeowners.
Here are the lawn care sins killing your lawn – watering too often and too shallowly, using a blower on the lawn, bagging the clippings, mowing the grass too short, and using too much fertilizer.
Yep, all that is killing your lawn.
Take blowers for example. I realize that in the fall when deciduous trees drop tons of leaves raking can be a pain. A powerful gas blower can come in handy – even more so if the leaves are at all wet. But unless you already have a deep rich sod those same blowers also blow every little tidbit of organic matter right off your lawn in the summer. It’s a wonder the grass isn’t blown away with it. Blowers are NOT good for lawns.
Perhaps the biggest hindrance to a healthy lawn is simply cutting the grass to short. Longer grass is better for several reasons. First, longer grass gives weeds less opportunity to find the sun and grow to maturity. If there is anything you do not want a weed to to do it is that – grow to maturity. Second, longer grass actually shades and keeps the soil cooler which retains moisture better – it is its own mulch if you will. Third, longer grass needs cutting less often. I know this seems counter intuitive but cutting the grass blade short stimulates a response of rapid shoot growth, growth which requires the use of food resources stored in the roots and stems, the constant use of which weakens the plant. Fourth, and perhaps most important, longer grass stimulates the growth of deeper roots, crucial to a healthy plant. Fifth and finally, longer grass better hinders the run off of water, as well as chemicals like fertilizer and herbicide that have possibly been applied to the lawn.
Shallow overly-frequent watering is very bad for lawns also, for two main reasons. First, shallow surface watering trains the root system to stay on the surface where it can grab the moisture before it evaporates. Deeper watering less often encourages the roots to grow deeper into the soil to find moisture, and that makes for a lawn more able to withstand future drought. In addition, overly frequent watering encourages fungal disease, probably the primary killer of turf plants. Surface soil actually needs to dry out, not only to encourage deeper root growth but also to hinder the growth of fungi. Sometimes we think that when a lawn starts to look a little droopy that it is in need of immediate watering. But most grassy plants are adapted to frequent cycles of wet and dry weather. When conditions get really dry they enter a state of semi dormancy, which will be quickly broken by rain or watering. The point is, it does not hurt the lawn to let it dry out some. So I suggest that you not water every day. More water less often is the way to go.
Most modern mowers do a very good job with “mulching,” that is, breaking up the grass and other material into tiny pieces and depositing this natural compost back onto the soil where it can decompose or be worked into the ground by worms. The mix of fresh grass clippings and chopped up organic matter is perfect for developing a healthier sod and minimizing the need for fertilizer.
Speaking of fertilizer, the truth is most people use way too much fertilizer and weed killer. Yes, our turf grasses need a boost of fertilizer a couple of times a year. A slow release fertilizer is ideal because plants can only absorb and use so much N-P-K at a time. Over-fertilization creates a problem not unlike over watering – it encourages a shallow growth pattern and discourages the plant roots from seeking out nutrients deeper in the soil. And – you are probably aware of the fact that fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides and fungicides on private lawns contribute greatly to pollution in our streams, rivers and lakes.
Even with correct practices, lawn issues will arise. For example, there was a good bit of winter-kill this year, especially in weaker lawns. Nematodes and fungi can be a problem despite excellent lawn care. Before embarking on an expensive re-sodding or lawn do-over it is good to have soil tested including tests for nematodes and fungi. Many times I have seen homeowners re-sod lawns only to have the new sod die because the underlying problems such as nematodes or fungal disease were not addressed.
Barren lawns can be rehabilitated with patience and good turf management practice. In addition to applying the techniques outlined above, filling in bare spots with a good compost (not sand) will encourage runners to spread into the bare areas. Sprigging here and there can quickly fill up barren spots as well. Aerating can be very helpful.
Some areas of your yard simply will not allow for grass primarily due to deep shade. Such areas can be mulched. One practice I am growing more and more fond of myself is planting or simply giving over such areas to moss, which is quite beautiful in its own way.
A great lawn doesn’t happen over night, so take the long view, and enjoy your space while that lawn underneath grows healthier and healthier.
